Let's Talk Malaria

First off, I would like to thank everyone for there e-mails. I finally got through them all and it is wonderful to hear about what everyone is up to. Please keep them coming.

Many asked about how hot it was. Right now, it is spring and the temperature gets to around 26-30 Celsius. The hottest is when there are no clouds and the sun beats down on you. With that exception, I would almost say that it is a mild heat and not overly humid. I find I tolerate it quite well.

I left off where I was talking about my experience with malaria. Well, the adventure continues with this friendly parasite. Since my last update, I have been continually experiencing low energy and aches in my arms and legs. So, as per my dad’s pestering and the recommendation of the health insurance company, I decided to visit a doctor in Accra (the capital and biggest city in the country). I arrived Sunday, October 1 at the Korle Bu Hospital and got some blood taken the following day. The results came back today and I guess the malaria parasites were not all killed off by the last dose of medication. This is not uncommon. I have been prescribed new drugs (coartem) and the doc wants me to stay in Accra until Friday to get retested to ensure that the malaria is gone.

I learned though that the anti-malaria pills (doxycycline) I was taking were not a complete waste. The doctor suspects that the reason my condition is not that severe (i.e. no fever, no headaches, no loss of appetite, etc.) is because the doxycycline may have blunted the effect of the malaria. He has recommended for me to continue to take them. Also, he says my liver and kidneys are fine.

It is funny the attitude Ghanaians have about malaria. To them is almost just like having a cold because it is so common. For example, my boss decided to just take an herbal medicine because he was feeling he had malaria. Actually, many have built up immunity to the parasite because they have had it so often. Here are some stats: about 38% of all hospital visits are due to malaria. You hear about millions dieing from the disease but most of them are children (no immunity) or pregnant mothers (there system is run down). Many of you had questions about malaria. Well here is a website for your interest: http://www-micro.msb.le.ac.uk/224/Malaria.html

With the exception of the aches and low energy, I have been able to follow my daily routine and go on a few adventures:

On Sunday, October 24, I went and saw the soccer team called Kumasi Kotoko play against the All Blacks. These teams are in the premiere division of the Ghana football league. The game was in Konongo because Kotoko’s stadium is being renovated for the Africa Cup in 2007. It was some excellent soccer with an enthusiastic crowd. With the exception of a small set of stands for VIPs, everyone stood either up against the fence or on a small rise in the topography to watch the action. I bought a Kotoko (a kotoko is a porcupine) flag and scarf as a souvenir. A 23 year old guy I met came along with me; he’s studying to be a catholic priest.

On the Wednesday, a team of us from the District Assembly went to the town of Agogo. The 30 minute trip there was great with lots of views into the surrounding valleys. We provided a presentation to the local area council on a new project to be implemented by the District. The purpose project is to assist those living on a $1 a day within the town. You can buy about two meals for a $1 and that is about it.

Victor (the Planning Officer) and Sam (the Engineer) took me out for banku for lunch. Banku is corn mashed into a soft blob. It is eaten with either soup or stew. In this case it was soup with grass cutter (hedgehog) in it. You take the banku with your right hand (and only your right hand) and soak it in the soup. The banku (corn) was alright, the grass cutter was very tasty and tender (like roast beef) but the soup was oily, spicy, and had a gritty taste. The gritty taste came from ground granite (like peanuts) put in the soap. This was my first experience with banku and I was not overly impressed. Afterwards, you wash your hand in a bowl with soap.

On the Friday, my friend Sam from work invited me over to his place to watch a Nigerian movie. It was a film about this guy who wanted to marry a rich women and the steps he takes to achieve it. I was very impressed with the acting and the quality of the film.

Saturday was a big day and completely revitalized my interest in Ghana. Sam had a funeral to go to in Koforidua that day and coincidently the other Canadian intern is working there. I thought it would be great to see what the place was like and Sam was happy to drive me there if I chipped in for gas.

Korforidua is situated at the base of a huge hill (which the locals call a mountain). The city has a pleasant atmosphere, mostly paved streets, and a variety of shops and restaurants. The people dress more sophisticated then in Konongo. There is a wonderful view towards the mountain which is punctuated by the spires of a white catholic church. The city seemed big enough to discover new things but small enough not to be overwhelming.

So, we first made a quick stop at the funeral and then we met up with the other Canadian intern, Lia. Sam then had sometime so he drove us to the Boti Falls just outside town. The falls are beautiful and include a male fall (the larger one) and a female one (a smaller one). The falls plummet into a basin where it gradually drains into a creek.

Next was off to Sam’s sister’s place for lunch. She made Banku (remember from above). But this time it tasted simply amazing. She included stew with the banku and it had onions and other vegetables with goat meat. So filling! My right hand was very sticky and messy afterwards.

Lia and I left Sam to go to the rest of the funeral. She showed me her office and the market. The market was very exciting. There was a whole maze of stalls with each section selling something different. There was a section for clothes, tomatoes, fish, brooms, buckets, plantains, etc. I was totally lost.

We ended up finding a round building where the butchers were. Inside, there was a huge round table with different types of meat laid on top of them. After passing the guy cutting up a goat, we found the butcher selling beef. Lia decided to get 2 pounds and the butcher went to slicing up the slap of cow in front of him. It was quite an experience watching all these carcasses buying sliced and diced in front of you. And the smell was not that bad. Don’t think the beef would pass inspection in Canada but we ate it anyway and had no problems.

Then we walked up to the white catholic church to get a view of the town. We also stopped at a drinking spot for some Star Beer which is sort of like Corrona. Very nice.

Lia’s place is much nicer than mine with a comfortable living room and kitchen. The one thing I would not trade for is the fact she only gets running water once a week; enough time to fill the barrels with water. Here electricity is more predictable though. Lia is a great host, cooked me dinner, and let me sleep on her couch. Hopefully I can return the favour in Konogo.

The next day I headed to Accra to get checked out. I have been staying at a nice hotel near the hospital and have been enjoying watching TV, the speedy internet, AC, and sleeping in. The cost is normally $45 but I got a deal for the next few nights of $25 a night.

I thought I should make the most of the time I have in Accra, so I did some site seeing in the town centre today. I started off at the colonial-era lighthouse and then went to the harbour where all the carved out fishing boats are moored. A fellow decided to give me an informal tour, without me asking, of the area. It actually was great because it allowed me to take pictures without being hassled. I got to see people applying their trade, the boats, and what they caught. As I well expected, they young tour guide (Mark) asked for some money but the $2 was worth it.

Then it was off to Fort Usher which used to be a Dutch-built slave fort and in turn a prison until the 1990s. There are plans for it to be turned into a tourist site but for now the caretaker is holding the fort (ha, ha). $5 for a tour and $2 for photos is the informal price of admission. The guide didn’t really know his dates very well but he could tell you what each of the rooms was used for. However, it was hard to determine if we were talking about the slaves or the prisoners or both.

Afterwards was the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park in honour of Ghana’s first President. The park had some nice gardens and a huge mausoleum which was amazing. There was also a small museum documenting the president’s life.

Finally, I made it to Independence Square, which is essentially a parade ground. It is supposed to fit 30,000 people and there is a set of stands surrounding the square. At the back of the stadium is a big yellow platform with literally “golden arches” holding it together. Quite amusing but a good view of the ocean from the first platform.

This stretch of sites I have described in Accra have the potential to be strung together to become a monumental avenue. However, at the moment, they seem to be just random buildings, food stales, dirt, trees, and broken sidewalks in between.