Nairobi and Kisumu, Kenya

I arrived in Kenya almost two weeks ago to start my master’s research project on slum upgrading. First stop was Nairobi where I stayed in the Kahama Hotel, which I recommend; only a short walk to the downtown if you don’t mind hawkers, highway traffic, and possibly getting lost. Once downtown you will appreciate the order of things; a grid system of streets, maintained parks, and modern (dating mostly from the 60s and 70s) buildings. While I was nervous for safety reasons, I found the downtown very comfortable. The streets are bustling with government and office workers going to a fro. In addition there are all the services that you could want; I was able to buy and set up a cell phone, do some photo copying, and purchase an internet dongle all within a morning. It was also worth taking a trip to the Kenya National Museum, which has very interesting animal displays and a short history of Kenyan. The most fascinating were the prehistoric human fossils.

One scary moment happened after I had returned from the hotel. I started to hear gunshots being fired and looked in the distance and saw the hawkers I just passed throwing rocks. I asked the cleaning lady what was going on. “Ohh, it is just the council people. They are firing tear gas at the hawkers. I am not sure why, because after the council people leave, the hawkers return 30 minutes later”. While I certainly find hawkers annoying, I think that perhaps the local government should spend more time setting up stalls for them rather then moving the problem around.

After a few days I flew to Kisumu to start my work.  My professor had arranged a place for me to stay at an apartment, which I very much appreciated. It was certainly better than my place in Ghana with running water, electricity that does not go out, a tv, a kitchen, and a security guard. Oh, and very few bugs and no lizards. However, the landlord could be a little bit better at the upkeep as the facet leeks, the walls need some patching up, the toilet sort of flushes, and the furniture is pretty rickety. But to be honest, this place is better than I expected. Plus it is in a safe neighbourhood, only 5 minute walk from a real mall with a grocery story, and about 20 minutes walk to the downtown.

But ah, the sounds of Africa. There is first the sound of the ultra evangelical church right next door to the apartment with a preacher that sounds like a crackling (these guys always seem to yell beyond the capacity of the speakers) lion with the congregation whaling to the music. Oh, and yes, this church goes three times a week; Sundays is 4 am till 9pm. Then there is the car wash; all you need is some water and a power washer and you are good to go. Next is the highway one plot away. And finally there is the call to prayer at the local mosque. And sometimes you get all these sounds all at once. Oh, and did I mention there is a bar right next to the church?

Kisumu downtown is nice with a modified grid, creating several nice squares and parks. It feels like a colonial frontier town on the lake. There are lots of shops and nice restaurants. However, I don’t think I have ever seen so many different banks on a main street; there must be at least ten of them. Unfortunately, there is not much of a waterfront as the railway cuts the city off from the water. But if you walk down to the harbour, there are some fish restaurants and…people washing their cars in the lake; guess they don’t like the price of the car wash near my place.

I did take a tour of the east end of Lake Victoria with a local guide. He pointed out some birds, fish, and a mother and baby hippo which was cute. The water is pretty green/brown but I understand this is due to all the run off from the surrounding hills and the city which creates a lot of sedimentation and algae blooms. As a result, most fishermen go further out in the lake to catch the big fish such as tilapia and Nile perch (an introduced spices). I was saw a few of the larger boats that carry cargo to other parts of Lake Victoria such as Tanzania and Uganda. There are currently no ferry boats running; the one the British carted up to the lake piece by piece from Scotland in the early 1900s is still floating at dock; it one day may become a museum. It was a pleasant boat ride and the guide Ibrahim was very knowledgeable.

I am impressed with the variety of modes of transportation here. You can take a bus, a van (matatu), a taxi, a tuck tuck, a motorcycle, and even a bicycle. I appreciate the use of bicycles but with the crazy traffic I prefer the tuck tuck. Not worth the risk!

In terms of safety; I have not witnessed any threats in Kisumu since I arrived. I understand that Kisumu is a much safer city than others as the locals abhor violence. I am also in a good neighbourhood with lots of foot and car traffic. I of course take the necessary precautions like locking my door and avoiding going out at night alone. The violence I hear about appears to be either politically related or along the boarders of Kenya.

As to the people, Kenyans are a friendly and respectful lot. I rarely get “hey mzungu!” or hassled while I am walking along the street which is so nice. I have gotten to know a few of my neighbours apartment in the apartment building. Also, the women showed me into my apartment even showed me how to cook chapattis and meat soap.

However, Kenyans can be reserved to the point that it is painful; quite the opposite of Ghanans who are very boisterous and playful. Other than the enjoying of certain foods such as fish, ugali (corn floor made into a something like coarse mashed potatoes), chapatis, and barbequed meat, I do not see much other cultural traditions on display. No strange ways of making food, no traditional clothing, no outbursts of dancing.

Let me tell you about African time. In Ghana, I got used to African time being about 30 minutes to 1 hour later. Kenyans take it to the extreme! Whenever I plan something with a Kenyan male; they are usual about 2 hours late. And this one professor was almost 10 hours late! So, I ask my friend why this is and he says that it is impolite for people to end their conversations before it has gone through its proper course. I appreciate that but it makes it difficult for anyone to plan their day if everyone is late for everything. I understand that males are much worse for this then females; I assume this is because males have less family responsibilities here.

Having an interesting time here but miss the Family and Friends Back Home