When You Are Sitting Around Bored at a Hotel on Thanksgiving

No, they do not celebrate Thanksgiving here. But I have good news! I went to the doctor last Friday for a blood test and the results are in: No more malaria! The doctor wants me to stay till Monday (tomorrow) so he can make sure I am on the mend. I guess it will take a few weeks before I am all better.

As soon as I hear the news that I am going to get better from some illness, I always expect that I’ll wake up the next day and feel completely 100%. Of course, it ends up being a gradual thing and then one day you realize “oh, I guess I recovered”. This does not help when you are an impatient person like me. I just want to get up and be able to run a marathon. Well, maybe more like 10k.

Well, since I do not have a lot energy to run around, I thought I would write more about my experience here.

Photography

Ghanaians are really anal about being photographed. Either it is because they are worried they will be put on the net in some demeaning manner (at least according to my one Ghana friend), they see it as an opportunity to make some cash (from my experience), or the building is sensitive (prisons, military, etc.).

If you are to photography someone, the etiquette is to ask them first. In the case of buildings, you ask someone nearby if it is ok. Even if you follow etiquette, you can still get into trouble from what others have told me.

I personally haven’t run into any problems but that could be because I have been really carefully. I try to avoid taking pictures of people unless I have their permission. I have found that photographing buildings and landscapes won’t get you into much trouble if you are quick about it. That is fine with me because as many of you pointed out that is what I take the most pictures of. After taking a photo, I try and move on as quickly as possible. Some people will argue that you caught them in the photo and in turn expect some money. But I just call their bluff and say they weren’t in the frame. Also, if you have an official/unofficial guide with you, he will back you up if you are taking photos in return for some cash at the end.

Also, Africans are really hard to take a photo of with their dark skin. If you don't let in enough light, they look like dark blurs. Hard to get a balance with a light background.

Transportation

Transportation in Ghana is surprisingly cheap and effective. You can get to almost anywhere you want if you inquire. Getting around ranges from buses, to tro-tros, to taxis.

Buses are run by the government and usually take you between the larger cities. You can get dropped off earlier if you want but you still have to pay the full fair to the final stop. The cost from Kumasi to Accra is a mere $5! I have not taken one yet but they are known to be the safest mode of transport.

Tro-tros go to almost any village, town, or city. The ones I am used to are vans/mini-buses that carry about 16 people. However, I guess there are others like big buses or trucks that could be called tro-tros. They are very cheap but are crammed full of people, not very comfortable, and not the safest way to go. I took one from Korforidua to Accra.

Taxis are really interesting. I’d say every fourth car is a taxi in Ghana. I think this is because there appears to be no public transport (exception of intercity buses) in Ghana. You can either get a dropping taxi or shared taxis. The dropping taxi is like in Canada where it picks you up and drops you off where ever you want. However, they are relatively more expensive ($1 to $5). Shared taxis are like public transport and run the same route. They pick up different people along the route for a fair from as low as $0.20 per person. Kind of interesting jumping into the same taxi with people you don’t know. From what I understand, dropping and shared taxis are the same car depending on what you want. I wonder how that system would work in Canada? Hmm, seems to clog up the roads in Accra.

Time Management

I have heard a lot of theories about how people conceive time in Africa. One person described it as circular concept versus linear like in the West. Well, leaving oddball theories behind let me describe a few situations.

I went to a workshop about two weeks ago and we were supposed to leave by 9pm to get to Agogo. I get to the office at 8:30, ready to go. Well, it ends up that the flip charts are still being written up. So, 10:00 rolls around I am thinking, how embarrassing is this for the District Assembly to arrive so late? We finally leave at 10:30 and arrive at 11:00. When we get there though, not even all the workshop participants have showed up!!! Guess this is normal as the workshop ends up going ahead without a problem.

Another example. The development planner one day has this rush job to undertake. So, I am thinking he will not be taking any appointments that day in order to get the job done. Then a few people show up and want to speak with him. He spends a third of the day with them before they leave. He notices that I don’t get it. He says that some people come from a long distance to see you and you cannot just turn them away. I guess people do not make appointments here.

Finally, I arrived to a meeting that was supposed to be at 2:00. I show up five minutes late thinking that everyone will be there already. Well, I am the first one and the rest of the crew does not show up for another half an hour. We have the meeting and at the end of it, everyone gets paid $3. I guess it is tough to get people to go to meetings.

Let's Talk Malaria

First off, I would like to thank everyone for there e-mails. I finally got through them all and it is wonderful to hear about what everyone is up to. Please keep them coming.

Many asked about how hot it was. Right now, it is spring and the temperature gets to around 26-30 Celsius. The hottest is when there are no clouds and the sun beats down on you. With that exception, I would almost say that it is a mild heat and not overly humid. I find I tolerate it quite well.

I left off where I was talking about my experience with malaria. Well, the adventure continues with this friendly parasite. Since my last update, I have been continually experiencing low energy and aches in my arms and legs. So, as per my dad’s pestering and the recommendation of the health insurance company, I decided to visit a doctor in Accra (the capital and biggest city in the country). I arrived Sunday, October 1 at the Korle Bu Hospital and got some blood taken the following day. The results came back today and I guess the malaria parasites were not all killed off by the last dose of medication. This is not uncommon. I have been prescribed new drugs (coartem) and the doc wants me to stay in Accra until Friday to get retested to ensure that the malaria is gone.

I learned though that the anti-malaria pills (doxycycline) I was taking were not a complete waste. The doctor suspects that the reason my condition is not that severe (i.e. no fever, no headaches, no loss of appetite, etc.) is because the doxycycline may have blunted the effect of the malaria. He has recommended for me to continue to take them. Also, he says my liver and kidneys are fine.

It is funny the attitude Ghanaians have about malaria. To them is almost just like having a cold because it is so common. For example, my boss decided to just take an herbal medicine because he was feeling he had malaria. Actually, many have built up immunity to the parasite because they have had it so often. Here are some stats: about 38% of all hospital visits are due to malaria. You hear about millions dieing from the disease but most of them are children (no immunity) or pregnant mothers (there system is run down). Many of you had questions about malaria. Well here is a website for your interest: http://www-micro.msb.le.ac.uk/224/Malaria.html

With the exception of the aches and low energy, I have been able to follow my daily routine and go on a few adventures:

On Sunday, October 24, I went and saw the soccer team called Kumasi Kotoko play against the All Blacks. These teams are in the premiere division of the Ghana football league. The game was in Konongo because Kotoko’s stadium is being renovated for the Africa Cup in 2007. It was some excellent soccer with an enthusiastic crowd. With the exception of a small set of stands for VIPs, everyone stood either up against the fence or on a small rise in the topography to watch the action. I bought a Kotoko (a kotoko is a porcupine) flag and scarf as a souvenir. A 23 year old guy I met came along with me; he’s studying to be a catholic priest.

On the Wednesday, a team of us from the District Assembly went to the town of Agogo. The 30 minute trip there was great with lots of views into the surrounding valleys. We provided a presentation to the local area council on a new project to be implemented by the District. The purpose project is to assist those living on a $1 a day within the town. You can buy about two meals for a $1 and that is about it.

Victor (the Planning Officer) and Sam (the Engineer) took me out for banku for lunch. Banku is corn mashed into a soft blob. It is eaten with either soup or stew. In this case it was soup with grass cutter (hedgehog) in it. You take the banku with your right hand (and only your right hand) and soak it in the soup. The banku (corn) was alright, the grass cutter was very tasty and tender (like roast beef) but the soup was oily, spicy, and had a gritty taste. The gritty taste came from ground granite (like peanuts) put in the soap. This was my first experience with banku and I was not overly impressed. Afterwards, you wash your hand in a bowl with soap.

On the Friday, my friend Sam from work invited me over to his place to watch a Nigerian movie. It was a film about this guy who wanted to marry a rich women and the steps he takes to achieve it. I was very impressed with the acting and the quality of the film.

Saturday was a big day and completely revitalized my interest in Ghana. Sam had a funeral to go to in Koforidua that day and coincidently the other Canadian intern is working there. I thought it would be great to see what the place was like and Sam was happy to drive me there if I chipped in for gas.

Korforidua is situated at the base of a huge hill (which the locals call a mountain). The city has a pleasant atmosphere, mostly paved streets, and a variety of shops and restaurants. The people dress more sophisticated then in Konongo. There is a wonderful view towards the mountain which is punctuated by the spires of a white catholic church. The city seemed big enough to discover new things but small enough not to be overwhelming.

So, we first made a quick stop at the funeral and then we met up with the other Canadian intern, Lia. Sam then had sometime so he drove us to the Boti Falls just outside town. The falls are beautiful and include a male fall (the larger one) and a female one (a smaller one). The falls plummet into a basin where it gradually drains into a creek.

Next was off to Sam’s sister’s place for lunch. She made Banku (remember from above). But this time it tasted simply amazing. She included stew with the banku and it had onions and other vegetables with goat meat. So filling! My right hand was very sticky and messy afterwards.

Lia and I left Sam to go to the rest of the funeral. She showed me her office and the market. The market was very exciting. There was a whole maze of stalls with each section selling something different. There was a section for clothes, tomatoes, fish, brooms, buckets, plantains, etc. I was totally lost.

We ended up finding a round building where the butchers were. Inside, there was a huge round table with different types of meat laid on top of them. After passing the guy cutting up a goat, we found the butcher selling beef. Lia decided to get 2 pounds and the butcher went to slicing up the slap of cow in front of him. It was quite an experience watching all these carcasses buying sliced and diced in front of you. And the smell was not that bad. Don’t think the beef would pass inspection in Canada but we ate it anyway and had no problems.

Then we walked up to the white catholic church to get a view of the town. We also stopped at a drinking spot for some Star Beer which is sort of like Corrona. Very nice.

Lia’s place is much nicer than mine with a comfortable living room and kitchen. The one thing I would not trade for is the fact she only gets running water once a week; enough time to fill the barrels with water. Here electricity is more predictable though. Lia is a great host, cooked me dinner, and let me sleep on her couch. Hopefully I can return the favour in Konogo.

The next day I headed to Accra to get checked out. I have been staying at a nice hotel near the hospital and have been enjoying watching TV, the speedy internet, AC, and sleeping in. The cost is normally $45 but I got a deal for the next few nights of $25 a night.

I thought I should make the most of the time I have in Accra, so I did some site seeing in the town centre today. I started off at the colonial-era lighthouse and then went to the harbour where all the carved out fishing boats are moored. A fellow decided to give me an informal tour, without me asking, of the area. It actually was great because it allowed me to take pictures without being hassled. I got to see people applying their trade, the boats, and what they caught. As I well expected, they young tour guide (Mark) asked for some money but the $2 was worth it.

Then it was off to Fort Usher which used to be a Dutch-built slave fort and in turn a prison until the 1990s. There are plans for it to be turned into a tourist site but for now the caretaker is holding the fort (ha, ha). $5 for a tour and $2 for photos is the informal price of admission. The guide didn’t really know his dates very well but he could tell you what each of the rooms was used for. However, it was hard to determine if we were talking about the slaves or the prisoners or both.

Afterwards was the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park in honour of Ghana’s first President. The park had some nice gardens and a huge mausoleum which was amazing. There was also a small museum documenting the president’s life.

Finally, I made it to Independence Square, which is essentially a parade ground. It is supposed to fit 30,000 people and there is a set of stands surrounding the square. At the back of the stadium is a big yellow platform with literally “golden arches” holding it together. Quite amusing but a good view of the ocean from the first platform.

This stretch of sites I have described in Accra have the potential to be strung together to become a monumental avenue. However, at the moment, they seem to be just random buildings, food stales, dirt, trees, and broken sidewalks in between.

Bruni goes to Market – September 22, 2006

Here is my first update from my new home in Ghana. Where do I start!

Ghana is a weird mix of stereotypes and surprises. There are people carrying things on their head, the buildings are very worn-down, most roads are not paved, toilets are not well kept or non-existent, and the electricity and water often goes out. People will often have 2 or 3 jobs to make ends meet. Kids play soccer in their bare feet. Dense jungle surrounds the area. Most cultivation and raising of animals is free-range.

Surprises: First, people dress extremely well here; their clothes are very well mended and clean. And while they are by no means rich, no one looks ragged or impoverished. People have cell phones and own TVs. Some even own cars. There are lots of radio stations with talk shows and music. Most children go to school. People are extremely friendly and helpful. You can buy Coke, Guinness, candy, etc. And during the day I feel very safe. The country seems to be at a crossroads between poverty and success.

I got in two weekends ago Sunday and met the mayor and the Assembly manager for dinner and some beer. We had a great conversation about the differences between of local government in Canada and Ghana. I was shown to my place in the evening which overall was fine.

The following day I met the Assembly staff and shown my office. I’ll be working under the Planning Officer for the 6 months. His name is Victor and has been really helpful in showing me around and getting the things I need. Right away I had to hit the ground running and assist him with updating the District’s Local Development Plan which is due at the end of the month. So much for easing into things.

One highlight of the first week was going to the final Assembly meeting before the local elections. While everything was conducted in the local language (Twi) I caught the odd word of English to understand what was going on. Victor was also helpful in translating. I was also introduced to the Assembly and I found out the Mayor (appointed by the National Government) and the Presiding Member (elected and chair of the Assembly) had both gone to Vancouver for the World Urban Forum.

There was a celebration at the end of the meeting in recognition of the end of the 4 year term for the Assembly. We had fried chicken and beer. The funny thing was that some Assembly members complained that others got bigger pieces of chicken. So, to put down a near riot (no joke), all the members got two pieces. Sadly, some of the staff were left without as a result.

The following weekend I went to town and found the laundry mat. This is not a typical laundry mat as the guy takes the clothes from you, washes them and irons them. However, the price, in Ghana terms, was crazy. $18 American, which is a lot when you consider lunch with a drink is $2. My Assembly friends think the guy ripped me off because I was foreign. The other option is to clean my clothes myself or find a nice old lady to do it. I think you know what I’d choose.

I also went to the market to pick up some supplies to clean my place. People where helpful in showing me where to go and find a mop and broom. But it is weird being the centre of all of the attention because I am white. What, am I some walking freak show? I got what I needed and cleaned my place the next day.

Unfortunately, I was feeling tired, achy, and disorientated last Sunday. So, I go to the doctor, get a blood test (yes, they use new needles) and guess what: I have malaria. No joke. This is even though I have been taking a pill everyday to prevent the virus but I guess it is not 100%. Stupid mosquito went and bit me. It must have been a day or two after I arrived because the malaria takes a week to incubate.

Yes, malaria is very serious if you don’t treat it. However, I was given medication for it and I am already starting to feel better. I took one day off work so I could spend the day on the toilet. I plan to take it easy the rest of the weekend. One should consider that malaria is extremely common and most Ghanaians end up getting it at some point. However, I was hoping for a better introduction to Ghana. Guess what I pickup in Ghana!?

Anyway, I have written some more below and put them into categories. I will do my best to e-mail you all but I have to warn you the internet here is exxxtremely slow. In turn, I do not think I will be getting many photos onto my website.

I have not found a good long distance plan yet. However, it is free, for me, if you phone my number. Would love to hear from you! Miss you all lots, lots, and lots.

Patrick!


Bruni

By the way bruni means white man in Twi and you hear people saying it where ever you go. In the case of little kids, they just go nuts when they see you. They say Bruni! Bruni! Bruni! over and over again as if I am some kind of mythical unicorn. They love it if you wave to them. Some kids, as you walk by will actually grab your arm just to see if you are real.

Teenagers try and be all cool but you say hello and they get this big smile on there face and say hello back. Adults are generally friendly and love to talk with the bruni. Where are you going? How are you?

The sad side of being a bruni is that some treat you like you are a walking ATM. People at the market are all about ripping you off (my skills are not so hot in the bargaining department). Others want a TIP for doing very little. One teenager even went to my house, knocked on the door and asked for food. I told him sorry. That was disturbing.

Konongo

I live in a small town of 20,000 called Konongo. The town centre has lots of activity and many 1 – 2 storey buildings crammed together. There is a huge market where you can buy anything from food, to clothes, to hardware, to household supplies. Most of the buildings are of concrete and look quite worn down. Other than the main street, all the roads are unpaved. Down the road from town centre is the Assembly building where I work.

My house is located in the community of Low Cost which is a suburb of Konongo. It is a community made up of Assembly staff housing. A lot of the staff are actually not from Konongo but have been appointed by the national government to work here. So, the Assembly has built housing for them to live. Hmm, is that why it is called Low Cost? I usually get a ride to work from the Assembly driver.

House

Well, I live in a bungalow/duplex. Inside is sort of like a bachelor pad with a washroom, a desk, bed, dresser, fridge, ceiling fan, and table. No kitchen though. The place is not bad overall: the screens keep most of the bugs out, the bed is comfortable, and there is lots of room. However, the roof does leak when there is a bad storm (bring out the buckets), some big spiders find there way in (get out the raid), and the shower has one setting: cold.

Fun times are had when the electricity goes out, which happens a least 3 times a week. Fortunately, the mayor gave me a rechargeable radio/lamp and the computer has a 3.5 hour battery. What also often occurs is the water will not run. I’ve had a few showers using a bucket already. Yes, good times.

Outside the house is a water well where all the kids of the area hang out. Obruni they yell. Then there are chickens and goats running around. The one maintenance guy raises HUGE snails and grass cutters (look like hedgehogs). Sometimes you see little lizards running around. There are also some tall trees to shade the area.

Food

People here love their starches whether it is spaghetti, rice, cassava, plantain, and yam. Usually it is served with a stew, meat sauce, soap, or chilli. Often there is a side dish of meat such as fish, chicken, or beef which is usually very tasty. They tend to put a lot of spices in the meals which give it some flavour. They do not put many vegetables or fruit in there food which I think is where the meals fall short. Everyone says I need to try fufu which is cassava, plantain, or yam mashed into a pulp and put in soap. Breakfast is unusually omelettes.

I think the food has the potential to be very good but there is no thought put in the combination. Example of one meal I had: plan rice, meat sauce, fried chicken. How does that go together?

My overall experience with Ghanaian food has not been wide but also not great. The Mayor’s cook prepares breakfast for me and while the breakfast is good the dinner ranges from tolerable to awful. Usually there is layer of some oily substance at the bottom, it has no flavour, and he always adds fish to the meal. I even told him that I also like chicken and beef. What do I get the next day? More fish. Anyway, the chef is a nice guy and I will have to see how it goes.

Development Projects

For those interested, there are is a long list of development projects occurring in Ghana. They include micro-credit for small businesses, cooperatives, credit unions (yes, Aunt Milley, there are credit unions), health insurance, etc. I believe that something like 40% to 60% of the government’s budgets is from other countries.

Work

I found out something very interesting (at least for us planning geeks) about planning in Ghana. I guess in Ghana there are two types of planners. There is a physical planner and there is a development planner. Physical planners design site layouts/masterplans and undertake site plan control, which is typical for urban planners in Canada. Development planners on the other hand coordinate development projects, identify priorities, and ensure that the development is carried through. While some planners in Canada may do this, I would say that it is not standard.

So, guess who I am working under? A development planner. Which does not make sense because according to my Canadian boss, I was supposed to be writing a physical plan for the District? Instead I am working on the Development Plan which has no spatial strategy what so ever. After that they want me to work on data collection. I sent an e-mail to my Canadian boss to ask what is going on.